hella soul food with a plant-based twist
Toriano Gordon grew up in the Bay Area, in a community that felt like a small town, but one energized by Black soul, music, poetry, and food. He grew up eating the Southern soul food that his grandmother made as well as the Texas brisket his uncle brought to California as well as the smoking barbecue of his grandmother’s sister. He learned to love food and family, and he spent lots of time in their kitchens and backyards, soaking up generations of knowledge about flavor.
As an adult, Gordon dropped out of grad school to follow his dream of opening a restaurant. He had gone vegan as a way to live healthier, and he had spent years in the kitchen trying to recreate all his favorite dishes from childhood using vegan ingredients. It was his persistence and creativity in recipe testing that brought about all the dishes that became immediate classics in the early days, when he was selling meals at the farmer’s market or taking over a friend’s restaurant for a pop-up. But it was Gordon’s hip hop energy and dedication to great taste that made his new restaurant such a success.
As soon as Vegan Mob opened, there were lines out the door. People were thrilled to find vegan food that tasted great, and they were happy to stand in line for the Vegan Mob Gumbo, Mob Burgers, Smackaroni and Cheese, Shrimp Fried Rice, Mob Tacos, and so many more dishes. And now, anyone can cook like that at home. In this cookbook, Gordon offers up not only his favorite recipes but his favorite vegan ingredients. The cheesiest cheeses, the best butter, the most meaty steak, the best shrimp for frying—he shares all his favorite ingredients and why he chooses them for his recipes.
From his grandmother’s Sweet Potato Pie to his uncle’s Smoked Vegan Brisket, from the Garlic Noodles that go with everything to the Kids’ Turkey Mob Melt that he invented so his vegan daughter would have a lunchbox sandwich to eat a school, from the Cheeseburger Rolls his sister suggested to the Chicken ‘n’ Waffle Bussdowns he created especially for his wife, these recipes speak to the family connections he cherishes. These recipes are the heart and soul of his family, his restaurant, and this cookbook.
I am not a fan of people who decide to create vegan dishes that mimic the meat dishes they used to love. The results usually seem like a poor substitute that would leave those eating them disappointed by both the taste and the experience. But these recipes are genuinely tempting. Gordon and coauthor Korsha Wilson have put in the time and effort to make these recipes as comforting, as flavorful, as memorable as those with meat. There are recipes for hearty breakfast, sensible lunches, weeknight dinners, and big weekend feasts. There are mains and sides and drinks and desserts, along with a host of sauces that can elevate your fries or your (vegan) hot dogs or your sandwiches to new heights.
Anyone who is vegan or is considering going vegan should pick up this cookbook to get creative ideas for home-cooked meals. But it would also be a good reference for anyone wanting to eat healthier or to eat fewer meals with meat, as these recipes offer up hearty alternatives for your usual lasagna, meatloaf, gumbo, or burgers. You can get all the taste and texture of meat while treating your body to a veggie-packed meal, and your senses won’t even know the difference.
Ten Speed Press provided me with a free copy of Vegan Mob; the opinions in this review are my own.
