going whole hog

Rodney Scott was only 11 when he cooked his first whole hog. He’d spent years in his family’s restaurant watching his dad cook a hog, helping to chop the wood, keeping the fire going for hours, so when he asked his dad if he could cook a whole hog by himself, his father agreed (Scott didn’t know it at the time, but his dad had another cook there supervising him the whole time).

Scott’s first hog was a success. As was his second and third and all the hogs he’s cooked since. Garnering the attention of the likes of Anthony Bourdain, Danny Meyer, John T. Edge, and Nick Pihakis, Scott’s reputations as a pitmaster grew as more and more people tasted his barbecue. He was invited to cook with other legendary pitmasters in Charleston and in New York City.

Rodney Scot’s World of BBQ pulls back the curtain on how a young man from the small town of Hemingway, South Carolina took his family’s small business and grew it into a successful chain of barbecue restaurants, feeding the South and beyond some of the best South Carolina barbecue they can find.

This unique book is part memoir, him telling his stories of failures and successes, and part cookbook, where he shares recipes for grilling at home as well as cooking at the stove. There are stories of growing up and recipes for rubs and sauces. There are cocktails and desserts as well as how he recovered the restaurant after two different fires (thankfully, no one was hurt, but the damage to the buildings was extensive). There are the stories of racing cars as a teenager, having to work extra hard at the restaurant before every holiday, learning from mentors how to become more professional and grow his business. And there are recipes from his family and friends that help put Southern heart and soul on the table.

Scott includes recipes for snacks, salads, and vegetables, and all the recipes are deep Southern comfort foods. Fried Chicken and Fried Catfish, Rodney’s Spare Ribs and Rodney’s Wings, Pimento Cheese, Potato Salad, Cole Slaw, Macaroni and Cheese, Rodney’s Reluctant Collard Greens, Hushpuppies, Corn Bread with Honey Butter, Apple Hand Pies, and Banana Pudding.

But we all know what we’re really here for. We want to know his secrets for cooking that whole hog. And Scott does not disappoint. From building the pit to starting the fire to the actual cooking, Scott takes you through the process step by step with lots of photos to help you stay on track.

Whether you come for the BBQ recipes, the Southern comfort foods (and drinks!), or the stories of growing up working hard and growing a humble family business into a BBQ restaurant hailed by The New York Times, Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ serves it all up with honesty, frankness, and modesty.

I live in a part of the country that is also known for its barbecue (Kansas City), and I really enjoyed reading about South Carolina ‘cue from one of the generals on the front line. And I appreciate how candidly Scott shared the stories of his family, of growing up in the South, and of finding his place in the kitchen. Scott, with the help of cowriter Lolis Eric Elie, puts some very personal stories on these pages, I came away from Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ with not only a new understanding of growing up in the South but a genuine admiration of Scott and everything he’s accomplished. This is one impressive cookbook.

A copy of Rodney Scott’s World of BBQ was provided by Clarkson Potter for an unbiased review, with many thanks.

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