a crust by any other name

Peter Reinhart is the bread guy. No, I mean it. Peter Reinhart is THE bread guy. The one who wrote The Bread Baker’s Apprentice as well over ten other books on breads and crusts. Fans of his also know him as a pizza connoisseur. So his latest cookbook, The Perfect Pan Pizza, is natural progression of his previous work.

In this latest book, Reinhart focuses on his favorite part of the pizza: the crust. He has 3 master crust recipes—a white flour dough, a whole grain country-style dough, and a naturally leavened dough (aka sourdough). From there, he gives you recipes that take you around the world, from Sicily to Detroit.

He offers options for sauces and toppings, but he himself admits to using store-bought sauce from time to time, because his focus is the crust. The caveat for all of his homemade crusts is that they take time—to get the flavor developed, they need to be made ahead of time, preferably at least a day in advance (but they can sit in the refrigerator for up to 72 hours, to add a little flexibility in scheduling).

If you’re someone who likes to stick to a tried-and-true recipe, you can choose from Reinhart’s Bacon and Egg Pizza, Reuben, Philly Cheesesteak, White Clams Casino, Motor City Hawaiian, or (as a Kansas Citian, I am drawn to this one) Beef Brisket with Burnt Ends, just to name a few. Or if you’re more of a free spirit in the kitchen, you can just make his crust and figure out the rest on your own.

And for the crust, you get step-by-step instructions with clear photos to help you through every stage of the crust making. He tells you how the dough should look and feel, how to rest it, how to knead it, and how to best spread it in the pan so you will get the best bake on it. Yes, these recipes are just for pan pizzas, but there are still many varieties to try. I strongly recommend this cookbook for anyone who considers themselves a pizza nerd, a foodie, or who just wants to make the best possible pan pizza for family and friends.

the play's the thing

rewriting the story